 |
Amy Krupski
Cruise News
|
|||
Mediterranean & Asia, 2010 - 2011
|
|||
Amy Krupski |
||||||
|
||||||
|
Kusadasi/Ephesus, Turkey Kusadasi is an attractive city on the Aegean. The name means "Bird Island" (there's a small island connected by a long walkway next to the town, which has grown from a small fishing village into a large community dedicated to serving tourists who are in the area to visit the Ephesus ruins and/or attractive beaches. Ephesus, first re-discovered in the1860s, is a huge archaeological excavation that equals Pompeii in its many preserved sites. To date, only about 10% of this ancient Roman city, which had a population of 250,000 during its heyday (from second Century BC through third century AD), has been uncovered. The bay, once positioned between Ephesus and the Aegean Sea, has dried up. The Arcadian Way, a ceremonial road first built during the Hellenistic Age can still be seen where, allegedly, Cleopatra and Marc Anthony rode in ceremonies. Ephesus was a thriving port city and some impressive sites include the Artemis Temple, St. John Church, Agoras, the Theatre, the Marble Road, the Harbor Road, Hadria's Temple and the Celsus Library. St. John spent time in Ephesus and between 54 & 57 AD, St. Paul preached at the theatre which held 24,000 people. The Virgin Mary Church was the site of the first Christian Council meeting devoted to the role of Mary in Christianity. The House of Virgin Mary located at the end of the road from the Magnesia Gate is the house where Mary is believed to have lived until her death. A very enjoyable tour through the ruins today. The forecast for rain did not occur, the November climate was mild and the crowds were smaller compared to summer's seasonal tourists. Chios, Greece I didn't get off the ship today because I had port manning duty. I had been to Chios, just a few miles off the coast of Turkey in the Aegean Sea, last year two times when on JOURNEY. Chios is very pretty and I had enjoyed walking along the port and finding a free internet café. (Crew members are always happy when we find free internet and are happy to purchase a cup of tea or coffee at the café.) In the afternoon I played at 3:30 tea on 10th deck in the Aqualina restaurant and the view of Chios was stunning. The town was larger than I remembered and the afternoon autumn sun cast magical light and shadows as the ship pulled away from Chios. I thought about rushing down to my cabin to fetch my camera but realized we would be too far away by the time I returned, so I keep this stunning image of Chios in my mind's eye. The Island is full of beautiful beaches, villages and monasteries. It is steeped in 3000 years of history, and claims to be the birthplace of Homer the poet (I was told Homer was from Smyrna when on a tour to Ephesus Volvos, Greece Volos is Greece's second largest city and lively port tucked into the base of the Pelion Peninsula. The city‚s roots date back to BC cities of Lolkos, Pagasae & Demitrias. By the 14th Century AD, those towns had vanished and replaced by one city dubbed "Golos", and 400 years later became Volvos and was incorporated into the Ottoman Empire. Greece took over the town in the1880s and for the next half century Volvos thrived thanks to trade by merchants, seafarers and craftsmen. In the mid 1950s Volos came to a near standstill due to a series of devastating earthquakes that destroyed much of its neoclassical architecture and crippled its business community. Thanks to its strategic geographical location this tough port town rebounded and today remains a major political and economic player in Greece and Europe. I didn't go on an organized tour, but crew members said the frescoes, wood carvings, wall paintings and icons in the four remaining Monasteries carved out among the caves and cliffs of Meteora are well worth seeing. Among Volos‚ most well known citizens are artist Giorgio de Chirico and new age musician, Vangelis, in case anyone is interested. Sea Day--The Dardanelles I don't usually write about sea days but this one was special. We passed many scenic islands and saw a number of beautiful monasteries along the way to Istanbul. One highlight came during the afternoon tea. It was magic, with a straight ahead view of the beautiful Monasteries and hearing bits of history from the bridge. Another was at dusk as we navigated through the Dardanelles, a narrow passage connecting the Aegean to the Sea of Marmara, at places no more than 1mile mile wide. Istanbul, Turkey Founded six centuries BC as Byzantium, re-founded in 330 AD as Constantinople and conquered by the Ottomans in 1453, Istanbul was the great European imperial capital for almost 16 centuries. In this old city you can walk the streets where crusaders and janissaries once marched, admire mosques which are the most sublime architectural expressions of Islamic piety, visit sultan's palaces and shop for bargains in some of the 4000 shops at the Grand Bazaar. Istanbul is the only city on earth which is located on two continents. The Bosphorus, the Strait that connects the Black Sea and the Seas of Marmara separates the Continents. The Bosphorus Bridge is the fourth longest in the world and was completed in 1973. This was the first physical link over the strait to connect Europe and Asia. A few of the highlights I was able to see during our two day stay in Istanbul were The Blue Mosque (known to architects as one of the great marvels of the world,) The Hippodrome (ancient Roman Stadium,) Basilica Cistern (actually an underground palace reservoir supported by 336 beautiful columns) and Hagia Sophia Museum originally built during 532 to 537 as and then converted into a mosque in 1453 and then into a museum in 1932. Simply beautiful. Istanbul had an upbeat atmosphere, was friendly and in some ways reminded me of San Francisco with the hills surrounding the bay & beautiful neighborhoods. Two days was not long enough! The city's Grand Bazaar, one of the most famous markets in the world, houses over 4000 shops. This covered market was constructed shortly after the Conquest of Constantinople. After Istanbul and another sea day back through the Dardanelles, we returned to Kusadasi/Ephesus with a new cruise group. I revisited Ephesus, this time on a crew tour, and continued to see & learn more about this ancient city. On our way back to Athens, we also stopped in Bodrum, Turkey, a port town in the southwestern Aegean region. The history dates back to the 13th Century BC and many civilizations found their home here. Heredotus, known as the Father of history‚ was born in Bodrum in 484 BC. Until the mid-20th Century, Bodrum was a quiet town. It became popular among Turkey's educated classes by a group of intellectuals centered around the writer Cevat Sakir Kabaagacli, who came here in exile. Since then, Bodrum is the home to many poets and artists as well a commercially minded investors. Rhodes, Greece I visited Rhodes last year and loved returning to this beautiful, stately island. It remains my favorite of the Greek Islands I have visited. The island's location is at a crossroads between Europe, the Middle East and Africa. Its position, amidst major sea routes, has given Rhodes a very rich history, as well as many different identities, cultures, architectures and languages. The island has been inhabited since about 400 BC. The Knights St. John were a huge influence to the island. They left imposing evidence of their presence and gave the particular character it retains to this day, with its impregnable walls, gates, churches hospitals inns and palaces. Their stay in Rhodes lasted 213 years, until 1522. Eventually the Knights of St John would be known as the Knights of Malta. They were originally in Jerusalem, then Cyprus before moving on to Rhodes & Malta. In addition to fighting battles they built hospitals. At the end of WW II, Rhodes, together with the other islands of the Dodecanese, was incorporated within Greece. On Match 7, 1948 the Greek flag was finally raised over the Governor's Palace. I wrote this poem last year after my first visit to Rhodes.
(oh well, I tried.) Rhodes reminded me of Malta, another favorite place. Both were and continue to be heavily influenced by the influence of the Knights of St. John. I felt at home in both places. Athens, Greece The 7 night cruise from Istanbul to Athens reached its destination on Sat. 11/27 and I finally saw the Acropolis! I wasn't disappointed either. Athens is a beautiful city, especially viewing the surrounding hills around this ancient site. Remains of the Parthenon set at the top of the hill along with other ancient, notable temples. Truly impressive! Our tour guide commented it had been a perfect late autumn day, much more enjoyable than the larger crowds and summer heat. I will only state a few facts here as you already know much about Athens. It‚s one of the world's oldest cities, and its recorded history spans at least 3000 years. Classical Athens was a powerful city-state. A center for the arts, learning and philosophy, home of Plato's Academy and Aritotle's Lyceum and the birthplace of many other prominent philosophers, writers and politicians of the ancient world. The gifts of the gods are what make Athens special in Greek history. The goddess, Athena gave the city an olive tree as a token of her protection of the city and the god Dionyssos gave the vine tree. These, along with many myths and traditions, have been proven by archeological findings, or so says the "Daily Pursuits!" Nov. 27, 2010 Sea Day I was quarantined to my room for 24 hours supposedly for the norovirus. Quick onset; quick recovery & a day off from work. I watched movies & slept between jaunts to you know where! Alexandria I saw some of Alexandria on an informal walking tour last year when on JOURNEY. I'm glad I saw the new library and remnants of the old lighthouse in the sea then, as I couldn't leave ship today. Again, had port manning. Very little of the ancient city has survived into present day. Much of the royal and civic quarters sank beneath the harbor due to earthquake subsidence and the rest has been rebuilt upon in modern times. The city was revived by Muhammad Ali as part of his early industrialization program in the early 1800s. But many museums house remnants of this city's great past. Remaining landmarks of interest include but not limited to: Abu Abbas al-Mursi Mosque, Caesareum, the remains of a rather splendid temple and full of information about Alexander the Great, and Alexander's Roman amphitheatre, the only Roman theater left in the entire country of Egypt. In addition, the new library of Alexandria, the National Museum of Alexandria, Museum of Fine Arts and Planetarium Science Center Had I been able, I would have returned to the Pyramids of Giza, which I saw a year ago. I would have taken the crew tour again, this time on Quest.. Instead, I spent the day writing up some of my travelogue! I recall the Great Pyramids of Giza along with the long, dusty ride from and back to Port Said and then getting back to the ship just in time to play three sets! Last year, another highlight in the Mediterranean was my two visits to Israel. I was in awe of the city of Jerusalem on an excellent crew tour, and very much enjoyed Haifa, which I explored on my own. Tomorrow starts 8 straight sea days, including cruising through the Suez Canal on Dec. 1st.. We're all gearing up to keep the guests entertained, though many of them come on long sea day cruises to read, contemplate and just relax and don't need to be entertained. Last year I found the sea days quite enjoyable when crossing the Atlantic. It will be nice to take a break from almost daily port visits, which can get a bit overwhelming at times, not that I'm complaining! In summary, returning to the Mediterranean was a great way to put much of last years travel experiences into perspective and to learn a little more about some of the destinations a little more in depth. But it would take years of serious study and more visits to fully appreciate all that I've seen and experienced. I am very lucky, indeed. to have had this opportunity to visit this great hub of Western Civilization! Headed to Asia! |
Suez Canal Passage Everyone was up for our cruise through the canal. We left Port Said last evening just before dusk and enjoyed the sun setting behind the mosques and city skyline, a romantic view of Egypt. The ship anchored several hours and waited for clearance to transit into the canal. The Suez Canal, an artificial waterway running north to south across the Isthmus of Suez in northern Egypt, connects the Mediterranean Sea with the Gulf of Suez, an arm of the Red Sea, providing a short cut for ships operating between Europe and southern Asia, eastern Africa and Oceania. The canal is 101 miles long and can accommodate ships as large a 150,000 dead weight tons fully loaded. No locks are needed because the Mediterranean sea and the gulf of Suez have roughly the same water levels. The first canal between the Nile River delta and the Red Sea was excavated around 13th Century BC! For long periods of time during the next few centuries the canal was neglected, but several rulers at various times had it re-excavated or modified. It was in 1858 the Universal Company of the Maritime Suez Canal (La Campagne Universelle du Canal Maritime de Suez) was formed with the authority to cut a canal and operate it for 99 years, after which the ownership would return to the Egyptian government. Excavation on the canal began the following year and it was open to navigation November 17, 1869. Under the terms of the international convention signed in 1888, the canal became available to vessels of all nations without discrimination , in peace and in war. However, it would prove to be the center of conflict for decades between nations, including Britain, Egypt and Israel. The canal continued to figure prominently in the conflicts between Egypt and Israel during the 1960s and 70s and was closed in 1967 during the Six-Day War when several vessels were sunk blocking the shipping lanes, but was re-opened in 1975 after an international task force had cleared it of explosives and other obstacles. Unrestricted Israeli use of the canal was secured in the peace treaty with Egypt in 1979. At present, over 1800 vessels pass through the canal each year carrying 7.5% of the world‚s sea trade. Cruise ships consist of less than 1 % of canal traffic. The above is just a small portion of information complied from the "Daily Pursuits"‚ and the excellent enrichment lectures given by Chuck Richardson from the U.S. A number of lectures pertaining to this part of the world, including The Red Sea, Somalia, etc. has informed and enriched many of us on the ship. SEA DAYS This is a good time to write about sea days as we're having a total of nine in the 12 night cruise from Athens to Dubai. Most crew have extra duties on sea days. For me it's the daily "Elegant Tea"‚ from 3:30 to 4:30. I find the extra duty more a pleasure than work and the ritual & serene setting a welcome diversion from what could turn into too many long, unstructured hours. Guests don't mind dressing up a bit, taking a break from the sun deck or from other ship (in)activities to take in this time honored ritual. Just the thought of teatime puts me in a dreamy mood. That along with the harp playing inspired the following poem. TEATIME
The hardest thing about teatime is not succumbing to the temptation to grab one of those delicious scones with jam and cream after the guests leave! In addition to playing three private events per cruse + the regular evenings in Discoveries Lounge or the Mosasic café, I've started a presentation one sea day per cruise on the "History of the Harp". Thirty-one attended the first presentation. This is a good topic to attract guests, and crew alike, as the harp remains a topic of curiosity and interest for many people and I'm continuing to work on interesting visuals to add to my collection of images of harps from many cultures throughout the ages. GULF OF ADEN---pirate country--- Today is Dec. 6. We just completed passage through the Gulf of Aden and the ship is no longer on security alert. For 2 days a boat run by a private company was hired to stay with the ship as an extra security measure. The guests and crew were briefed at the beginning of our cruise & we ran through a safety drill where everyone had to go to the middle of the ship in a public area. For most of 3 evenings most outside lights were turned off and curtains pulled to not attract attention. Ship Captain, Leif Karlsson, had earlier explained the likelihood of pirates trying to come on a cruise ship is remote but one or two attempts have been known to happen. Cargo ships which sit lower in the water with valuable cargo and few people are more likely to be targets. More and more sophisticated attempts have been successful as pirates acquire money and the ability to utilize the internet and modern technology. Dubai, United Arab Emirates Approaching Dubai, I was reminded of Manhattan on a flat desert. Dubai is a landmark for innovation; a city where expansion has no limits. The city boasts remarkable skyscrapers, such as the world‚s tallest building, the Burj Dubai‚ and is also in the process of developing one of the most technologically advanced buildings in the world---The Pad. This is based on the idea of an ipod; the residential tower is set to be embedded with the latest gadgets that will have the power to change interior design and window views to almost anything imaginable. Walking around Dubai with ship's Destination lecturer, Chuck and his wife, Helga, I felt we could be in any large, cosmopolitan city in the states. The city is very clean and upbeat whether in the modern part or the old town. It is one of the most multicultural cities in the world with the population consisting mainly in an expatriate community and with less than 10% of the total being national Emiraes. The state of Dubai is commonly referred to as a city because it has been distinguished as the most modern and cosmopolitan environment in the Emirates. Dubai gains higher returns from its tourism, as revenue from oil only accounts for around 6% of its gross domestic product. Oil is decreasing by the year and cannot be depended upon. That is partly the reason for a construction boom in order to diversify its economy with the expansion of commercial and corporate activity. |
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2010
Bruce, In Ho Chi Minh City today. Pretty French colonial bldgs and lots Will send more after about two weeks. Need a little rest from writing. Amy ==================== Dubai to Singapore---12 night cruise This 12 night cruise also included a lot of sea days. Even though we were through the Gulf of Aden, which is considered the most dangerous and high risk waters for pirate activity, we became aware pirate activity has continued to expanded into broader territory and some security measures were in place until we passed India and Sri Lanka. We continued to enjoy smooth seas, warm breezy days and the night sky was always bright and stunning. Traveling south and east we set our clocks forward in one hour or half hour increments and were advised to get plenty of rest during these time changes. Later the captain informed us a cargo ship had been confiscated back in the Gulf and a second one barely escaped pirate captivity. Mumbai (Bombay) India Mumbai, formerly Bombay, lies on the west coast of India and is the most populated city in the world with 14 million people and up to 20 million population when combined with neighboring suburbs. The Daily Pursuits gives the following information. Mumbai is India's finance canter, the economic powerhouse of the nation, heart of the Hindi film industry and the industrial hub of everything from textiles to petrochemicals. It is the glamour of Bollywood, cinema, cricket on the "maidans" (open grassed areas,) outstanding colonial architecture and red double-decker buses. To tell the complete story of Bombay to present day Mumbai (since 1996) would take volumes and I won't even attempt to share my limited information. A four hour bus tour of the city is insufficient to capture or appreciate this interesting and complex metropolis. Viewed from the bus was squabble, ordered trash, storied shacks and many peopled neighborhoods among beautiful parks, stunning colonial buildings, stately private schools and university cricket games played on vast expanses of grass. Perhaps only in India can these extremes co-exist, seemingly harmoniously. Even the poverty and trash seem ordered. We were there on a Sunday afternoon and the streets were relatively empty of the usual traffic and human congestion. The end of our tour was a visit and lunch snack at the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, the site of the 2008 terrorist attack. It is quite beautiful and we enjoyed a small lunch before returning to the ship. While boarding the bus, I caught sight of a small girl, perhaps 6 or 7 years old, carefully holding a small child, perhaps a year to 18 months old. Both appeared under-nourished so it was difficult to know their exact ages. The child's head tilted heavily on the girl's right shoulder, its fragile body, tattered and worn, and was about one third the size of the girl. It appeared as if the child has been stapled to the girl's body her entire life and would always be carried by the older beggar. I will never know if the few folded U.S. dollars I handed the beggar will give them sustenance or to whom she will hand over the money. Her image is forever etched in my mind; her fate and life, forever ordered by her birth. BEGGAR CHILD Life is never easy for you, little one, You care for the attached child with grace and dignity. You, too, are precious, Kochi (Cochin), India A number of guests opted to fly north for a two day visit to the Taj Mahal, getting off the ship in Mumbai and re-embarking in Kochi. But most guests remained on the ship and visited this tropical city with beautiful beaches and palm trees. Kochi (Colonial name Cochin) lies on the southwest coast of the Indian Peninsula. Like Mumbai, it has a long and distinguished history and is a principal seaport city. Throughout time the Arabs, British, Chinese, Dutch and Portuguese have left indelible marks on the history and development of Kochi. Kochi was the first princely state to willingly join the Indian Union when India gained independence in 1947. This city has a diverse religious and multicultural population who live in peaceful co-existence. I was assigned in port manning and unable to get off the ship. The guests and crew members who did get out and about enjoyed seeing some of the rural areas surrounding the city. A favorite tour was to the back waters of Alappuzha, where the inland sea meets numerous rivers. Phuket, Thailand Sunshine Village Orphanage was the site of the ship's Christmas charity donation this year. Started by the French Red Cross for victims of the 2004 tsunami, about 30 crew, including Captain Karlsson, and 15 guests visited the orphanage. We distributed age & gender appropriate gifts and additionally, donated $4000 in cash. It was a very moving experience. The children up to age 18, were beautiful, well-behaved, and very grateful for the gifts and Santa's visit. Their Tthank You song brought tears to our eyes. The guests on this 12 day cruise added significantly to the total $$ contribution. Had I not gone to the orphanage, I would have gone on the crew tour to ride the elephants. Perhaps somewhere else in Thailand, as I won't be on the ship when Quests revisits Phuket. By the way, Phuket is an Island just off the west coast of Thailand with a population of 75,000. On December 26, 2004 the world watched in horror as Phuket was ravaged by tsunamis from the Indian Ocean earthquake. Six years later, Phuket's pristine beaches, bustling capital city and booming tourism industry are once again thriving. Singapore, Singapore This City State Nation, described by one tour guide as the busiest port in the world‚ is located just north of the equator. The island, just off the southern tip of Malaysia, is 31 miles long and 14 wide. The population is 5 million (yes 5 million,) with very little open spaces left aside from the beautiful botanical gardens. The humidity is around 90+ percent, the average temperature around 90+ degrees and the average yearly rainfall 90+ inches. Singapore is beautiful with a mixture of Colonial architecture alongside modern high-rises. During the 11th Century, this small island earned a new name, Singa Pura, (Lion City.) According to legend, a visiting Sri Vijayan prince saw an animal he mistook for a lion (there are no lions in the region except maybe in the zoo, although I'm not sure there is a zoo!) During the 18th Century, the British saw the need for a strategic "halfway house" to refit, feed and protect the fleet of their growing Empire. It was against this political backdrop that Sir Stamford Raffles established Singapore as a trading station. The policy of free trade attracted merchants from all over Asia and as far away as the U.S. and the Middle East.. By 1918 this Island was Britain's chief Naval Base in East Asia. In 1924 this swampland island, unappreciated for its location, was deeded to English East China Co. by a Sultan. By 1959, Singapore joined the Federation of Malaysia but became an independent state in 1965 when it separated from the Federation. During the fall of Singapore, Japanese troops defeated 90,000 British, Australian and Indian troops and Singapore was under Japanese occupation from 1942--45. The island is clean, orderly and safe and known for its strict laws. The fine for first time littering is $300! I saw much of Singapore on a tour, including the orchid gardens (a portion of the botanical gardens) and the Emerlion‚ statue by the water. I look forward to re-visiting Singapore, particularly Merlion Park and Raffles Hotel, when in port. Dec. 24th and 25th On Christmas Eve the entertainment staff staged a grand holiday party. The cabaret stage was decorated as anyone's living room. In addition to the cast and orchestra, who regularly perform on stage, the rest of the musicians also performed. These included Polish guitarist/singer, Frank, who now lives in Finland, Jeff, pianist/singer from Canada and Moondance Duo, Marie, singer from Australia and Johan, pianist from Colombia. And the harpist! The harp was set up next to the piano. In addition to playing a solo piece, I shared the following poem written by California poet, Robinson Jeffers, in 1940. ONLY AN HOUR For an hour on Christmas Eve Dark though our day, Midnight Mass was later held and we arrived in Bangkok on Christmas morning. Christmas lunch and dinner were served for guests who stayed on or returned to ship. I stayed on the ship today and rested. Saw POLAR EXPRESS for the first time and spent time with Bing Crosby, Danny Kaye & Rosemary Clooney while I watched WHITE CHRISTMAS. I had to wait until 8 am on Dec. 26th to call my family in California at 5 pm on Christmas day! It was a lonely time hearing about Christmas dinner and opening presents by the fireplace and Christmas tree from half way around the world. This 18 night Christmas cruise from Singapore to Hong Kong is the only one this lengthy and the only cruise to include Cambodia.. The rest will be 14 night cruises back and forth between Singapore and Hong Kong for the next two months and also includes ports in Thailand and Vietnam. I will check in from time to time and give information on interesting places but not necessarily in chronological order. Starting early March we head north to mainland China, then to Japan and South Korea for two 12 night cruises. When we return to Singapore in early April, I am scheduled to disembark and the ship will reposition to head back through the Suez Canal and 6 months in the Mediterranean and other parts of Europe. |
