Bangkok, Thailand Dec. 25--27, 2010
I didn't go on any organized tours this first stopover in Bangkok. Many crew members sign up to be an Escort‚ for guest shore excursions and assist the local tour guides. The shore excursion staff here on the ship relies on the "escort"‚ to evaluate the guided tour & give feedback to assure the tour provides what was promised, report guest concerns, etc. The ship returns to Bangkok several times on future 14 night cruises and I look forward to future tours.
Meantime, some of the following information was given in the Daily Pursuits. "A steamy, pulsating, yet smiling metropolis of more than ten million." In the span of two hundred years, Bangkok has been the political, social and economic center of not only Thailand but for much of SE Asia and Indochina and has the status of a global city. The "must sees" include:
* The Grand Palace: Formerly the residence of the Kings of Thailand, this architectural wonder is the city‚s most famous landmark.. In late January, I visited The Grand Palace (absolutely stunning) and Wat Pho Temple where we received blessings from the Monks. The ceremony was simple and highly ritual. Both of these destinations were spectacular, especially the Grand Palace which was built in the 1800s and took 19 years to complete the numerous structures. Many buildings cover acres of land and the Emerald Buddha is located in one of the temples. At the end of this tour we spotted the elephant house, sitting high on stakes, where the emperor got on and off his elephant.
* Wat Pho Temple----home of the world's largest reclining Buddha
* Wat Phra Kaew----Temple of the Emerald Buddha (located inside The Grand Palace.)
* Wat Arun----Temple of Dawn, features a 260 foot spiral silhouette which is recognized as the symbol of Thailand.
Spent the afternoon in a more commonplace pursuit on our first stopover. Billy Di Crosta, singer extra-ordinaries on the ship, and I checked out a couple of shopping centers and all the street vendors in between. I learned how to keep pace among the throngs of pedestrians, and how to bargain for a cheaper price, purchasing a decent skirt for $7.00!
January, 2011
Went on a crew tour of the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market for a 1 & 1/2 hour boat ride along the canal west of Bangkok. We passed many boats selling their wares, villages and some beautiful pagodas, temples and statues. Buddha is everywhere here in SE Asia!
After arriving at the main market I enjoyed watching all the merchant boats in operation, many people preparing and selling food or trinkets from their small boats along with colorful wares at the stationary market
Feb. 22, 2011
I was off tonight and was lucky to go on the Rice Barge Dinner Cruise and visit the Patpong Night Bazaar. The river excursion was interesting and the Thai dinner excellent. Viewing Bangkok at night leaves a more romantic impression of the City especially the many temples and shrines.
Ko Samui, Thailand
Jan. & Feb., 2011
Ko Samui, Thailand's third largest island, is an oasis of natural beauty. The island is 88 square miles & round in shape with a population of 50,000. The central part of the island is almost uninhabitable. It is still a haven of beauty with luscious lagoons, natural white sandy beaches, dazzling coral, coconut trees and crystal clear water. Tourists started arriving here in the 1990s and ŒSamui‚ is now the second most popular island destination in Thailand, after Phuket.
On Feb. 16th, I visited the Big Buddha, 40 feet tall and visible from miles away. This golden image is one of Thailand's most famous. Also Grandfather and Grand Mother Rocks at a beautiful beach and rock formations on the coast. In addition, there is Wat Plai Laem, one of the most colorful temples on the island. It features an 18 arm Buddha statue set in the middle of a lake. A combination of the temples, gold statues, warm weather and beautiful beaches makes Ko Saumi a special place. Maybe I'll jump ship and linger for awhile!
Sihanoukville, Cambodia
Dec. 29, 2010
Sihanoukville is a port city in southern Cambodia on the Bay of Thailand half way between Thailand and Vietnam. Named in reverence to the King of Cambodia, Norodom Sihanouk, this port city is the key trading point to an otherwise landlocked nation. The city was founded in 1964 to be the only deep water port in Cambodia. This was due in part to the waning power of the French, leading to the Vietnamese tightening their control over the Mekong Delta and hence restricting river access to Cambodia.
I went on a tour of Sihanoukville and the surrounding area. On our way to the big marketplace, the streets were crowded with everyone selling their wares. The Cambodian people are poor and struggling and the fallout from the genocide committed under the Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot‚s leadership is apparent everywhere. No one knows the exact number of people murdered but it has been estimated to be at least 3 million, a staggering number tin his small country. There are relatively few old people in Cambodia today as many were killed or later died prematurely, due to starvation and poor health.
Over 50% of Cambodia's population is under age 22 and 80% of the population lives in poverty.. School days last only four hours as the children are needed to help parents earn a livelihood in this country of fourteen million. Cambodia imports more than it exports. Their main export is their one crop a year of rice (black gold) known to have no chemicals and to be of high quality. At the end of our tour, we visited a beautiful pagoda, the location of one of the killing fields where Buddhist monks who lived there were slaughtered.
Some of the above information was provided by our tour guide who lost most of his family at the hands of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge. There is a lot of sadness here along with hope, especially among the country's youth.
I was unable to visit Angkor Wat, the city of ancient temples as the distance from the ship required overnight travel. Several guests visited this outstanding ancient city and reported a feast for the eyes and many memorable, impressive sites.
Ho Chi Minh City, (Saigon) Vietnam
Dec. 31, 2010---Jan. & Feb. 2011
Formerly Saigon and Vietnam‚s largest city, Ho Chi Minh City, is located in the heart of the southern part of the country and is intertwined with natural forests, vast plains, a long coast and numerous rivers and canals. The Saigon River winds around the city and connects it with the East Sea. The former city of Saigon, combined with outlying areas, was re-named Ho Chi Minh City in 1976, has a total population of over 9 million inhabitants and is a major hub for commercial, tourists, cultural and scientific activities. One tour guide commented, "this city has 10 million people and 5 million motor bikes!"
Riding through Saigon there were cars and rickshaws and, yes, hundreds & hundreds of motorbikes. Our tour guide noted that most people in the working class buy motorbikes due to the high price of gas. The average wage for a middle class worker is between $150 and $300 (U.S. dollars) per month but even lower in other parts of the country. In this Communist ruled country, it can take years to apply for and purchase a house, even if a couple can afford one. The people vote per household, rather than individually. Usually the Father determines the vote; but our tour guide, who lives with his in-laws, said it is his mother-in-law who determines the family vote!
Parts of the city of lovely neighborhoods are filled with wide tree lined streets and French colonial buildings, the Hung King Temple on the grounds of the zoological & botanical gardens with 200 yr old plants. I saw bright eyed pre- school & elementary school children in their colorful uniforms. All of this and much more (the Norte Dame Cathedral and the Post Office are not to be missed!) The Reunification Hall, built by the Russians on the site of the former palace was very interesting and the location marking the end of the ŒAmerican‚ (Vietnam) war when a Soviet tank was driven through the gates.
Many who live in this largest metropolis in Vietnam still call the city Saigon, but write only Ho Chi Minh City. The tour guide described HCMC as "liberal dynamic and forward thinking city" with a large population of "progressive" young people. compared to the more "conservative" regions in the north of the country.
Jan. 14, 2011
We drove 1 hour to the Mekong Delta from Ho Chi Minh City and spent the day. After the bus trip, we boarded a large boat at the head of the Mekong River and then small canoes through the maze of scenic canals surrounded by tropical jungle. Even rode a donkey cart back to the big boat! The delta is a beautiful part of Vietnam. After viewing miles of rice fields and coconut trees in the tropical climate, we enjoyed walks through a forested area and were welcomed to peek inside the simple but clean country houses along the way. Before re-boarding the big boat back to land we visited a coconut candy factory and also enjoyed a forest of rubber trees from which latex is produced. Also saw how rice paper, used for wrapping sea food, meats and vegetables rolls,is made.
Early February, 2011
About an hours drive from Ho Chi Minh City are the Cu Chi Tunnels. The drive was scenic and very enjoyable in itself. This tour turned out to be one of the most interesting, but equally disturbing. The tunnels were initially built to house the Viets fighting the French for independence and later used in the American War‚ by the Viet Kong. The area has been converted into a tourist attraction and parts of the tunnel complex has been opened and ventilated so that visitors can experience the underground meeting rooms, kitchens, hospital and sleeping areas.
Along the path between the tunnel entrances were assortments of bear and other animal traps (with metal and bamboo spikes) used to capture the "wild animals"---referring to the enemies in both wars. The tour guide demonstrated how the Viet Kong soldiers hid in small openings in the ground to scout out the enemy. We also saw an American tank on display, which had been confiscated in the 1970s. Many of the local people residing in this province sided with the Viet Kong from the north and used the tunnels to escape to the Saigon River.
Free Time in Ho Chi Minh City: With one or two overnights in HCMC, (5 stops altogether) I had time to explore the city. The 10 minute shuttle bus ride from the ship took guests and crew to HCM Square in a very nice part of the city, letting us off in front of the eloquent Rex Hotel. I got to know this area by foot and felt comfortable taking advantage of the inexpensive services such as facials & manicures. A good manicure and pedicure plus tip cost me $10! There are also many free wireless locations in the area, including McDonalds & Starbucks.
I recently learned it was from the roof of the Rex Hotel that the last helicopter, lifting refugees out of the country, left Saigon at the end of the Vietnam War. What we refer to as the fall of Saigon is called the liberation of Saigon over here.
Danang, Vietnam
Jan. 3, 2011
Remember Danang Air Force Base? We often heard about it on news reports during the Vietnam War. Danang, the forth largest city in Vietnam, was a safe and undamaged area and our soldiers & allies spent R & R time at nearby China Beach. Danang is located on the central coast of Vietnam and is noticeably cooler as we cruise north and away from the humid, tropical heat closer to the Equator. The Cham Museum in Danang is worth mentioning and houses artifacts from the early Cham civilization.
I had to obtain a Vietnam visa in order to visit areas beyond the port towns/cities where the ship stopped. In addition to the Mekong Delta and Cu Chi Tunnels (out of HCMC) I had the chance to go to the following areas from the port near Danang. Went on a Village Life Tour in and around the small settlement of Hoa Chau and were greeted by school children who were not shy about asking for change. Learned about Ancestral Houses, the center of community spiritual life, where ancestors are remembered, celebrated and worshiped. In addition there is the Spirit House (always yellow) where spirits of the deceased are believed to reside and are held in high esteem and protected. In the whole of Vietnam culture one sees the fake money and other items of purchase to buy for and give as an offering to the ancestors. One tour guide stated he bought motorbikes (paper models) for his grandparents who always wanted but could never afford them while alive. The living continue to care for those who have passed on believing they continue to need the same material support enjoyed by the living.
Along the way we saw miles of rice paddies, walked through an ancient walled city and inspected the water buffalo, a treasure and important part of the rural family life. Water buffalos live long lives and are often buried alongside family members having plowed many fields and gardens.
Visited Hoi An, now a World Heritage town and stunningly beautiful. Though presently inhabited by Vietnamese and a fast growing tourist area, many Chinese and Japanese settled in this area in the 1800s and left beautiful temples and Pagodas. The covered Japanese bridge was a favorite site and during our free shopping time I took a 30 minute rickshaw ride through the narrow streets and kept my camera on and busy.
Whether in countryside or in the cities, many people, especially women, wear masks to protect their faces (white skin is given a high value here) also for health reasons, especially in more urban, polluted areas. Village life is alive and well here. Throngs of young people ride their bicycles to and from school, in uniform and the young girls wear masks covering the lower half of their faces.
Hue, Vietnam about a three hour drive from Danang is in the Thua Thien Province and the former capital of the Nguyen Dynasty. This area, rich in history, was heavily hit during the Vietnam war and about 80% of the ancient temples were damaged or destroyed. Hue is known for its beautiful imperial architecture as well as its natural beauty. The Perfume River is the border between the city itself and the previous Forbidden Purple City‚ & the Citadel. Even though Hue has faced damages from natural disasters and wars, one can still see proof of its previous magnificence. Hue is the only city in Vietnam that still has the integral manifestation of a complex of the monarchic capital comprising of walls, palaces and royal tombs. (Incidentally, the Perfume River got its name because people could smell the perfume being shipped along this river from other parts of Asia.)
Halong Bay & Hanoi, Vietnam
Jan. 4 & 5, 2011
Halong Bay lies in the northeastern part of Vietnam about a 3 hour drive from Hanoi I went on boat tours in the bay and visited the Cung Caves (discovered in the 1990s) two different times. One of the attractions of Halong is the bay‚s calm waters and the numerous limestone mountains with vegetation (1,969 altogether) dotting the landscape. The end of the Vietnam War and the advent of "Doi moi," Vietnam's policy of opening its economy to foreign trade, means the Westerners and Vietnamese from the south are now are able to visit Ha Long. We took a 40 minute walk through one (of three) caves open to the public. The colored lighting inside this extraordinary cave has made a lasting impression along with many photo shots with my new cannon camera. (Right Angie? Crewmate, Angie from Melbourne, and I recently purchased identical Cannon cameras at an enviable price!)
Many families live on barges in the bay and the children canoe to land to attend school. They eat & sell seafood but have to go into the market to buy vegetables, which they also sell to the many tourists sightseeing on boats. They pull alongside the tourist boats holding their fruits & vegetables inside the windows. Ha Long is only a portion of the larger Gulf which, I learned was the Gulf of Tonkin earlier named by the French.
Hanoi, Vietnam's capital, is just over 100 miles from Halong Bay. In February, I took the long tour, 3 hours one way to Hanoi. Hanoi is considered to be the cultural center of Vietnam where every dynasty has left behind their imprint. Even though some relics have not survived through wars and through time, the city boasts more than 1,000 years of history, hosting more cultural sites than other Vietnam cities, including over 600 pagodas and temples. As an administrative center for the French colony of Indochina, the French Colonial architecture style became dominant. Today one can appreciate The Grand Opera House, The State Bank of Vietnam, The Presidential Palace and the Cathedrale St. Joseph. In addition to the fore-mentioned landmarks, we saw the old French prison (known as the Hanoi Hilton) which was also used to house prisoners of war during the Vietnam era.
One highlight of this and a favorite site of all the tours I took in SE Asia, was the ancient and beautiful Temple of Literature. The beauty of this place and the energy from centuries of art, architecture and education was truly amazing. Another rickshaw ride through the old quarters gave me an appreciation of the native structures and the lovely (always yellow) French Colonial structures.
Of all the places in SE Asia, I enjoyed Vietnam most. Not only is it a beautiful country but we had the chance to stop at several ports with access to many outlying areas for those who had visas. I found the history fascinating and gained a tremendous respect for the Vietnamese people who are resilient, resourceful and peace loving. Riddled with over a thousand years of invasions and wars, they seem ever more determined to move forward and put their painful past behind them.
Hong Kong, China
Hong Kong is more than just a shopping mecca. Its bustling harbor, towering skyscrapers and row upon row of shops may be its most famous images, but Buddhist monasteries, terraced rice paddies and a 17th century walled village are equally important to its identity. In fact, most of Hong Kong's land is in the New Territories, which are rural in character, and Hong Kong administers more than a dozen islands that provide a pleasant contrast to what's found in the densely populated urban areas.
Hong Kong's 413 square miles is divided into four main areas: Kowloon, Hong Kong Island, New Territories & Outlying Islands. Located off the southeast coast of China, the complete area has a population of approximately 5.8 million people.
I enjoyed a tour to the rural New Territories in the Kowloon province. Just an hour's drive from the harbor city of Kowloon, the New Territories reach north up to the border of mainland China. (A highlight in the New Territories was a walk through an old walled city.) Cruise ships dock at Kowloon just across Victoria Harbor from Hong Kong. A tunnel joins the two properties and easy and frequent ferry trips in Victoria Harbor allow for quick & easy access between the two cities.
Chinese New Year
February
4 & 5, 2011
After watching the 8 pm green light laser show, which is shown nightly across Victoria Harbor, crew and guests enjoyed the 30 minute New Year's fireworks, the biggest display of fireworks I have ever seen. Toward the end I especially enjoyed the written display after bursting into the night sky: "I love (heart shape) HK!" I will long remember this celebration welcoming the Year of the Rabbit.
Another favorite adventure was the Hong Kong Island Tour. After driving to the other side of the harbor through the underground tunnel, we took the cable car straight up to the top of Victoria Peak and looked across the hazy harbor. The high-rises are differently shaped from the other side, but the haze & smog are equally impressive! I purchased a postcard photograph of Victoria Harbor from the 92 year old photographer who shot the picture in 1955. The skyline was smaller; the smog non-existent and one has a different appreciation of the vast changes in the past 55 years. The tour guide told us that cleaning up the environment is becoming a high priority here.
A trip to the popular & historic Stanley Market was very interesting with good buys on quality items. I‚m not usually one to go shopping for the sake of shopping, but the Stanley Market was special. Another fun adventure was the 30 minute sampan boat ride through Victoria Harbor to the Aberdeen Fishing Village. The colorful and varied boats of all shapes and sizes (from old fashioned wooden to modern stream-lined) provided a unique ambience in this harbor surrounded by mighty, steel mega-structures.
In 1984 the "Sino-British Joint Declaration" was signed and Britain agreed to transfer sovereignty to the People's Republic of China. The treaty stipulated that Hong Kong would be governed as a special administrative region, retaining its laws and high degree of autonomy for at least 50 years after the transfer. The "Hong Kong Basic Law", which would serve as the constitutional document after the transfer, was ratified in 1990 and the transfer of sovereignty occurred at midnight on July 1, 1997. Hong Kong was turned over to China but will remain a Separate Administrative Region (SAR) until 2047.
The five 2 week cruises between Singapore and Hong Kong have been interesting, varied and very educational for me. I have been able to go on many of the shore excursion tours, in addition to exploring on my own, and hope to see a couple of additional sites when the ship returns to Singapore. I am scheduled to disembark there on April 12 and Quest repositions to return to the Mediterranean. If time allows, I hope to visit inside Singapore's famous, historic Raffles Hotel and to see the night zoo. Yes, Singapore does have a zoo which is highly recommended by everyone who has been there.
The Shore Excursion Staff here on Quest has been a godsend to me and for other crew members who wish to take advantage of tours offered when in port. I must thank this exceptional staff headed by Luke from the Philippines & Adrianna from Brazil and Diane & Bruno from Montreal for their excellent research and preparation of tours and for their undying support of crew and guests alike. Being able to accompany guests on many of the tours has made my cruise experience even more exceptional and memorable. Thanks LUKE, ADRIANA, DIANE & BRUNO!
March 4 & 5, 2011
As we head north into mainland China, Japan and South Korea we will visit many ports only one time each on the two shorter 12 day cruises. I will write less about these ports as I'll be heading home soon after the northern leg of the cruise ends. I do know a crew tour to the Great Wall of China is planned for March 21st & I look forward to exploring the interesting areas including several Chinese ports, Nagasaki and Seoul. Altogether, there will be 12 ports and 10 sea days.
More later, maybe!
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